Culinary

Robyn dines at Delphine in Hollywood

REVIEWED BY ROBYN WYMAN-DILL

I believe there are three essential ingredients to a great dining experience: hospitality, ambience and exceptional food. Dining at the Delphine Eatery & Bar, located just inside the swanky W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, with its Franco-California bistro menu created by Executive Chef Sasha Lyon, who learned the art of classical French cuisine at such notables as L’Ermitage and Citrus, promises to be a dead ringer for my big three.

Ambience. A canopy of white lights stretches across the open courtyard leading up to hotel’s south entrance. To the north lies yet another noteworthy entrance that butts up against Hollywood boulevard, glittering with famous luminaries from an earlier era. It gives me the impression I am a star about to be born as I open its sparkling glass doors and follow the red carpet inside.

There I surrender to the role of a Hollywood extra in a spectacular happening at the intersection of color, glam people and architecture. Bedazzled, I continue to marvel at the lobby’s centerpiece; a red-carpeted spiral staircase complemented by a tear drop chandelier descending like a waterfall into what is known as the “Living Room” below. Black leather Retro moderne couches, circular white settees stuffed with cushions and a padded bank of welcome desks resonate with swanky sexiness. Yet, I must continue my course up ‘the red carpet’ into the Delphine Eatery & Bar.

Infused with hip, I enter into a room of different textures altogether. The red carpet has now morphed into a soft blue and gold geometric design befitting of a restaurant whose name means of or relating to the dolphin. Steel blue circular booths border circular brown laminate tables reminding me I am in a no-frills bistro cafe setting. Is Hollywood glam still in the house? Just beyond our blue horizon and our table lies a hip outdoor lounge with red, black and white decor known as The Station. All is well and waiting outside.

Hospitality. The assistant general manager and our maitre’d for the eve is Wes Zelio. Wes is the best: that is to say, Wes is the best at creating a feeling of well-being. With the casual confidence of a professional, he describes the menu and philosophy of the restaurant in broad strokes then takes us on a journey of how the organic kale salad is perfected, weekly specials are changed out based on what is in season and available at the local markets, and a selection of new dishes that are created weekly. Our waiter, Josh, shares his knowledge of white wines - Napa Valley Anterra Pinot Grigio and a smooth New Zealand Villa Maria Sauvignon Blanc - which whet our appetites for the sparks that follow. We sit back and relax, feeling no pain in the hands of such able men. Their attention to our dining experience is more than a footnote; it is in huge part a feeling of satisfaction from this evening.

Exceptional Food. The organic kale salad with crisp pita, jalapeno, soledad goat feta and creamy citrus dressing is a must. My palette could have stopped here but my curiosity forces me to soldier onward. The mushroom and mascarpone ravioli is another excellent starter with its mixture of kabocha squash, mixed mushrooms, hazelnuts and sage brown butter. We transition into an order of kumamoto oysters with an apple salad dip and the yellowtail with spiced cucumber, radish, pink peppercorn and fennel. These selections are fresh and innovative accompaniments to the more traditional French bistro fare that follows.

The chicken tarragon with basmati rice and tarragon chicken jus was both tender and tasteful. Trout meuniere served with sauteed shrimp, potatoes, lemon, and parsley brown butter is a departure from my expectations of a simple, light dish. Sasha’s version is really quite rich so it soon overwhelmed me before I could finish.

Now, a truly Franco bistro experience would not be complete without steak and fries so, we pushed ourselves to the limit and ordered the dry aged rib eye steak with fries and a
choice of béarnaise sauce or herbed butter. This did not disappoint.

Bursting at the seams, we dipped our spoons into two desserts - an apple risotto delight and their chocolate torte made from scratch. In a word - delicious. Twice.

I believe there are three essential ingredients to a great dining experience - hospitality, ambience and exceptional food. The Delphine arrives at all three yet wisely leaves the window open to continue to grow beyond exceptional food into the realm of excellence. Now, isn’t that what real creativity is all about? I recommend you join them in pushing those boundaries. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, Sunday brunch and Happy Hour.

The Delphine
6250 Hollywood Blvd.,
Hollywood, CA., 90028
323.798.1355

Breakfast: 7AM-11AM (Mon-Fri)
Lunch: 11AM-3PM (Mon-Fri), Close from 3-5PM
Dinner: 4PM-10:30PM (Sun), 5PM-10:30PM (Mon),
5PM-11PM (Tue-Thur) & 5PM-12AM (Fri-Sat)
Brunch: 10AM-2PM (Sat&Sun)
Happy Hour: 5PM-7PM (Mon-Fri)

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