Culinary

CHAYA BRASSERIE

REVIEWED BY JOAN PINE

The word excellent sometimes can seem trite, but describing CHAYA BRASSERIE

in Beverly Hills, I just keep repeating… excellent and excellent!  From the moment we walked into this elegant setting, to the professional presentation of the food, to the service and to the unusual blend of Japanese-French cuisine, I knew that we would return again and again.

 In business for 390 years, yes, 390 years, CHAYA began in Hayama, Japan where they offered tea, sweets and a respite for weary travelers. Today, in California, in Beverly Hills, Venice, Downtown and in San Francisco, this 25-year-old Beverly Hills Brasserie offers a respite for lunch, dinner, Happy Hour, A Petite Lunch and a Sunday Sushi special. Located right off Robertson Blvd on Alden Drive, it is one block from Cedars Sinai Medical Center and two blocks away from Beverly Center.

There was an atrium in the center of the restaurant with bamboo stretching upward to the top of the high ceiling, giving more privacy and quiet to the diners. The lighted marble back wall washed the room with a comfortable ambient glow while the stylish ceiling fixtures added an unpretentious Zen quality to this very sizable room.

The manager, Caitlin Bryant, was pleased to describe many of our food choices, including where the food originated and the ingredients. She had notes for each item on the menu (in case a customer was allergic to an ingredient); she knew what each item contained.

David, our genuinely French server, brought out the Seafood Medley which was presented on a long, narrow glass tray filled with deep fried calamari, oysters, shrimp, sushi rolls, and a trio of sashimi, including yellow tail, big eye tuna and salmon. Everything was fresh and served with its own individual sauce.

Our salads were the heirloom tomatoes, watermelon and feta cheese in gazpacho vinaigrette, which combined interesting pungent flavors and an ‘I would order it again’ taste!

In their Japanese-French tradition they used miso and sake with their marinated duck breast and also used miso to marinate their White Sea Bass.  That menu item was so flavorful that I would not share it with my companion. However, he was just as happy with the pan Roasted Alaskan Halibut, perfectly prepared, not dry, but moist and tender.

The wines were such that we could savor all the different tastes. Starting with the white wines - Sauvignon Blanc, Honig, 2009, Napa Valley, Grenache Blanc, Curren, 2007, Santa Ynez Valley, and then the reds - Pinot Noir, Klee, 2008, Willamette Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon, ATALON, 2004, Napa. My companion enjoyed the Honig best; however, as the above list indicates, there is an extensive selection to choose from.

Although we are definitely not vegetarians, especially since we ordered the Herb Roasted Colorado Lamb Loin, we also ordered the Grilled Vegetable and Polenta Napoleon. It was layered like Lasagna, with polenta cake, vegetables and soy cheese and was tasty and delicious.

Of course we had room for dessert when David returned with a Warm Chocolate Croissant Bread Pudding and a thinly sliced round Apple Tart.

Executive Chef Yuko Kajino and staff purchase their produce from local organic farmers and farmers markets. There are specials of the day, a La Petite Lunch, Monday to Friday, 11:30 to 2:30, a very popular Happy Hour, 5:00 to 7:00, and Sushi Sundays, 5:00 to 9:00 PM.

CHAYA is the perfect place for a romantic evening, a family night out, or a celebration. This restaurant is comfortable, cozy and wonderful, and you will want to return to it often. Call 310 859 8833 or visit on line at THECHAYA.COM.

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